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69 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
1900-1919 Name three designers seen in the lecture that were significant to turn of the century fashion. |
1. Jacques Doucet 2. Frederic Worth 3. Mariano Fortuny |
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1900-1919 What accessory did women wear that is so characteristic of thisperiod? |
Hat |
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1900-1919 Name two artistic movements happening at this time thatinfluenced fashion designers creating for women’s dress. |
1. Art Nouveau2. Orientalism |
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1900-1919 What hand-made material made originally in Ireland and Italy isused in women’s garments at this time? |
Lace |
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1900-1919 Can you name two fashion magazines from this era that arementioned in the lecture? |
1. Les Modes 2. Le Journal des Dames 3. Vogue |
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1900-1919 What garment pushed the evolution of the tailor-made? |
The riding habit |
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1900-1919 What part of the world was influencing Western fashion between1900-1919? |
The orient |
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1900-1919 What is a fashion plate? |
An illustration of a garment |
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1900-1919 What important fashion movement began at this time? |
Haute couture |
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1900-1919 What was the ideal female body type at the turn of the century? |
A mature and womanly body shape; hourglass, S-bend, ‘TheGrecian’ figure. |
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1900-1919 Define gabardine. |
A smooth durable twill-woven cloth, typically of worsted or cotton. |
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1900-1919 What is damask? |
A firm lustrous fabric (as of linen, cotton, silk, or rayon) made withflat patterns in a satin weave on a plain-woven ground on jacquardlooms |
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1900-1919 Brocade? |
Fabric woven with an elaborate design especially one having araised overall pattern |
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1900-1919 What did Poiret do that is so important during this period? |
Liberated women from the corset |
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1900-1919 What does worsted refer to? |
Wool |
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1900-1919 Can you name three types of ladies’ dress that were mentioned inthe lecture? |
1. Day Wear 2. Formal Wear 3. Tea Gown |
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1920-1929 Where did department stores originate? |
France |
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1920-1929 What style of hat was popular? |
Cloche |
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1920-1929 Describe flapper style |
The ‘flapper’ girl is a term coined to describe young girls who looked called‘garçonne’ (‘little boy’). They wound their chests with strips of cloth inorder to flatten it, the waist lines dropped to the hipline, they wore stockingsmade of rayon and in 1923 started wearing garter belts (to keep the stockingup). -Flappers broke away from the Victorian image of womanhood. Theydropped the corsets, chopped their hair, dropped layers of clothing toincrease ease of movement, wore make-up, created the concept of dating,and became a sexual person. They created what many consider the ‘new’ or‘modern’ woman. |
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1920-1929 Who perfected the bias cut? |
Madelaine Vionnet |
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1930-1945 Name three designers seen in the lecture that were significant tothe 1930-1945 era |
1. Elsa Schiaparelli 2. Madeleine Vionnet 3. Coco (Gabrielle) Chanel |
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1930-1945 Who was Coco Chanel’s rival? |
Elsa Schiaparelli |
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1930-1945 What transformation did men’s neckties experience? |
Got wider, bold prints |
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1930-1945 Why was Richard Avedon so important to fashion photography?Did he change any past traditions up until this time? |
He changed the mood of fashion photography. He challenged theposed tradition of art nouveau that portrayed the model like astatue and introduced a more natural stance. |
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1930-1945 What changes can be observed in the bathing costume? |
Sunbathing prompted greater exposure or the skin to sunlight asthe way to a healthier body. Thus the overskirt of the bathingcostume was reduced to almost nothing allowing more skinexposure. The armholes were enlarged and the décolletage wasmuch deeper. Finally, the 1st backless bathing costume appeared,although no more backless than the evening dress of the sameperiod. |
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1930-1945 In the 1930s which tricks of the couturier were employed to givethe impression of increased height? |
Hat and hairdos were usedDresses usually came to about 10 inches above the groundEvening dresses reached the toes |
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1930-1945 A new focus of erotic interest appears in the early ‘30s. What partof the body is it? |
The emphasis shifted from the legs to dresses designed to be seenfrom the back. Even day dresses had a slit up the back, and the skirt was drawn tightly over the hips as to reveal, perhaps for thefirst time in history, the shape of the buttocks. |
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1930-1945 What women’s dress design was the designer Alix also known asMadame Grés, famous for? |
Grecian column gown |
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How did the restrictions in access to materials as well as theeconomic considerations of WWII create changes in both women’sand men’s fashion (1939-1945)? |
Men’s fashion became more informal (they no longer wore dinnerjackets) and women’s evening dresses grew shorter. Women didnot have access to silk for stockings so drew a line down their legsto imitate silk stocking seams. Utility clothes were introduced in1941. Scarves and turbans were used instead of hats in women’sdress. |
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Early cigarette ads, targeting women who may have been concerned withtheir lipstick cited what characteristic? |
Ivory tips to protect the lips |
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In the 1950s the male models in the Malboro campaign always hadwhat trademark? |
A tattoo on the back of his hand |
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What measure did Paris take at the end of WWII to reestablishitself as the epicenter of fashion? |
50 couture houses contributed to a traveling exhibition calledThéâtre de la Mode that attracted thousands of visitors in Europeand America. |
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Who was Claire McCardell (1905-1958)? |
An American fashion designer known for her functional, affordable,stylish women’s clothing. She was a pivotal figure in Americanready-to-wear clothing. An example of this is her Shirtwaister dress. |
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What was the new look for women’s fashion in the 1950s and who is credited with this 'new look'? |
A curvaceous feminine silhouette; rounded shoulders, long bell-shapedskirts with small waists (A line) and Dior. |
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What was Elsa Schiaparelli’s signature colour? (50s) |
Shocking pink |
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Which fashion designer had the reputation of producing severeelegance, was highly experimental and had a gift for dramatic colour,especially black? (50s) |
Balenciaga |
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What was the designer Jacques Fath known for? (50s) |
Striking evening wear -Complex cutting techniques -Insertions of contrasting fabrics -Elaborate trimming |
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What concept did the artist Ellsworth Kelly introduce whendesigning a woman’s dress in the same manner as one of hisabstract paintings? (50s) |
He marked clothing as an occupation of space. He created a visualschema intervening in the environment. |
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What element of men’s fashion became prominent in the 1950s? |
The gray suit as the beginning of a post-WWII culture built onbusiness |
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How would you describe men’s ties in the 1950s? |
Skinny |
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What piece of clothing became a symbol for teenage rebellion? |
Blue jeans |
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The Teddy Boy look that emerged out of Britain was inspired bywhich previous fashion style? |
Dandies |
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What image of women is constructed in fashion magazines such asVOGUE at the beginning of the 1960s? |
GLAMOUR; femme d’intérieur, unaggressive, impeccable withcarefully coordinated accessories |
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What represented the break with the old world for boys, or forgirls? |
For boys: long hair For girls: mini-skirts |
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Who invented the mini skirt? |
Mary Quant |
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What is a Dandy? (60s) |
A beau or gallant man who places particular importance uponphysical appearance, refine language, and leisurely hobbies,pursued with the appearance of non-chalance in a cult of self.It can also be seen as a political protestation against the rise ofleveling, egalitarian principles. |
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What was the Peacock Revolution? (60s) |
men wearing bold styles and colours |
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Who exemplified the Peacock look? (60s) |
Patrick Lichfield (Aristocrat and fashion photographer) |
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What military influence inspired a women’s hairstyle of the period? (60s) |
The Beehive hairdo for women was inspired by the B52 bomberplanes (resembling the nose cone) -It was made popular by the girl group The Ronettes in Chicago |
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Name two fashion models that were icons of the ‘60s |
Twiggy and Jean Shrimpton |
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What designer used unconventional materials such as plastics, foil,and sequin sheeting in their clothes and created paper ‘thowaways’and making garments from paper that sprouted seedlings whenwatered? |
Betsey Johnson |
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In the 60s, fashion became a medium for expressing concepts,ideas and political ideals. Name a designer shown in the lecturewho does this. |
Yves St-Laurent:Cocktail Dress after Mondrian, 1965Wool Jersey Mondrian Tunic Dress, 1965Evening Dress after Tom Wesselman, 1966 His borrowing on elements in art allowed fashion to becomeconceptual. By treating dresses like canvases, he made cheapercopies of the Mondrian concept for the mass market for example. |
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What was the conk hairstyle for me? (60s) |
It is the process of chemically straightening the hair of black men inthe tradition of white men. |
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The 1960s constructed new predicates for fashion and allowed it tobecome a principal art of our time. Steering away from couture itsought to become a market for lifestyle. What directs fashion? |
Fashion and visual culture are directed not by an upper class butby the media. The freedom of fashion gained in the 1960s is guidedby democracy, energized by novelty, and will always be pluralistic,in a democratic way. |
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What did Sheena Matheikson do to support Indian children’s education in 2009? |
The uniform project |
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Can you give an example of a fashion sub-culture that streamed its way intopop-culture? |
NYC drag balls in 80s |
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What Amercian artist merges dance and textiles through performance? |
Nick Cave |
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Can you cite an example of fashion performance that clearly speaks to the concerns of one group? |
Punks |
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Which designer’s work is focused on movement in her/his collections of the late1980s? |
Issey Miyake |
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In the early work of Issey Miyake, the designer wrapped the moving body in asingle length of fabric. What cultural significance did this have? |
The Japanese see an uncut length of fabric that creates drapes as ma, (roughlytranslated as ‘space’) and never consider it illegitimate. This is turn causedpeople to question what clothes themselves were. |
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What garment was appropriated by the LGBT community, in the 1970s, as asymbol of gay macho? |
The kilt |
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When looking at platform shoes, you were shown Vivienne Westwood’s producedthe 1993 mock-crocodile 12-inch Blue ‘Staggerer’ shoe. Can you speak to what itrepresents? |
Westwood said: "Shoes must have very high heels and platforms to put women'sbeauty on a pedestal."Joanna Hashagen, keeper of textiles at the Bowes Museum where they were partof an exhibition, said "When you see them, you see they are sculptures, they areworks of art in themselves." She goes on to say they are "works of art inthemselves". |
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Which designer worked with Madonna on numerous projectsand produced her infamous cone bra for her 1990 Blond AmbitionTour? |
Jean Paul Gaulthier |
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Jean-Paul Gaultier’s body of work is renown for whichcharacteristics? |
-Technical virtuosity and skill -Multicultural references -Multisexual references -Hybrid references -Gender transgressions -Choice of unusual beauty in his models |
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Jean-Paul Gaultier’s states “Ethnicity is part of my workdefinitely.” Can you name two of his collections where this isapparent? |
1. Chic Rabbis Collection, 1993 2. The Great Journey Collection, 1994 |
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Which designer was coined l’enfant terrible of the fashionworld? |
McQueen |
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Which designer 1996 collection presented a fearfulrepresentation of the femme fatale? |
McQueen |
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The ‘wabisabi’ (aesthetic of the incomplete) can be found inthe work of which designer? |
The Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons |
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What fashion trend was deemed the last movement that wasinspired by music or an art form by Daphne Guinness in the early1990’s and who ushered it in? |
Grunge by Kurt Cobain, the lead singer of the rock band Nirvanaand his wife Courtney Love |