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56 Cards in this Set

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  • Back

What does the spec pack contain?

Graphic and written information necessary for directing mass production of garments

What are the 3 things that garments in the spec pack aim for?

1. To look like the original design


2. Fit the target customer


3. Meet the engineering requirements demanded of a production line

What happens after the spec pack has meet all of it's requirements?

1. A style number for each design is assigned


2. Fabric and identification info is collected


3. Preliminary cost of producing the style is projected

The spec pack will be your__________ between partners throughout the product development process

Communication

Patternmaking

The interpretation of a garment from a sketch, photo, or another existing product into a paper representation template for use in production of a finished garment style

What is the garment that's constructed from the first pattern used for?

Evaluate styling decisions

Turnaround Time

the time frame required for completion of a garment from inception to delivery

What does 2-D pattern making include?

1. drafting a pattern directly from measurements


2. flat pattern drafting which can be done by manipulating a basic pattern template or previously perfected pattern blocks


3. drafting a pattern from an existing garment

Draping

3-D method of pattern making and was the first pattern making method to be developed

Flat-pattern

involves making styling changes to previously developed and perfected pattern pieces

Block

foundation pattern piece which may be used to develop new or more complex styles

What is the importance of blocks?

They eliminate the need to go back and re-create each garment from scratch, making the pattern development and fitting process faster

Pattern drafting

begins from scratch. body measurements are taken. then style lines and ease are added resulting in a 2-D paper pattern fro the design

Markers

the layout pattern piece on the fabric

What is vendor that offers pattern development as a part of its sourcing services referred to as?

Full package

Seconds/Irregulars

Products that do not fit within tolerances and are rejected

What is the first phase of specdevelopment based on?

The lineplan and the initial illustrations or prototype garments for specific styles
Style summary sheet
drawingsof the front and back of the style and a preliminary cost sheet with productcost estimates
When does the next phase of productspec development occur?
After astyle has been adopted and requires decisions as to how the garment will beproduced.
Technicalspecs
reflect detailed information regarding materials,including identification of specific fabrics, findings, and trims and theirquality requirements
Cut,make, and trim (CMT):
includes the process of actually manufacturing theproduct; literally it is cutting the fabric, sewing the garment together andapplying the trims.
Operationslist
identifies each step of constructions that will beperformed during production of the garment including the identification of thestitches and seams involved in completing the operations

Sizing

refers to the assignment of a particular body type into categories that reflect the body measurements of these in that size group

Why is sizing more complex with women?

1. Changing fashion


2. Arbitrary sizing nomenclature


3. Evolving body type

What are the 4 dominant body types?

1.Rectangle shape


2. Spoon shape


3. Inverted triangle


4. Hourglass

Grade

the difference from once size to the next in a range

Vanity Sizing

placing a smaller size label on a larger size garment

What is the difference between sizing and fit?

Sizing is based on body measurements, whereas fit is based on garment measurements

What are the 5 elements of fit?

Grain, set, line, balance, and ease

Seams

Stitching that hold together pieces of pattern forms

Seam Allowance

the extension between the row of stitching and the edges of the fabric

What are wide seam allowances a mark of ?

Quality but they increase cost and create excessive bulk

Superimposed seams (SS)

the most used seam class, formed by stacking piles of fabric on top of one another and stitching them together near the edge

Lapped Seams (LS)

overlapping the seam allowances of two or more piles of fabric and sewing them together; the largest seam class

Original Equipment Manufacturing or Package Contractor (OEM)

focuses on the manufacturing process; the vendor takes over the sourcing and financing of the material in addition to providing CMT production services finishing and packaging for the delivery of the customer

Functional performance

relates to utility and durability

Utility

can be explained as the products usefulness and be measured by fit, comfort, and care requirements

Durability

products ability to retain its appearance after purchase, it can be measured by testing for things such as shrinkage, and seam strength

Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC)

requires conformance to specific criteria for flammability in fabrics used for infants and children's sleepwear

EU

European Union

International Organization for Standardization (ISO)

very strict requirements, if your firm is trying to compete internationally its best you learn these rules

Open Specifications

allow for some latitude in tolerance; vendors have to be reliable if something doesn't go right

Closed Specification

more detail and exact; this will guarantee that your item will be exactly as designed

Specification Library

ability to go back and view spec books to use measurements, styles or patterns from previous garments to create a new one

What are the two organizations that testing methods come from?

American Association of Textiles Chemist and Coloring (AATCC)


American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM)

American Association of Textiles Chemist and Coloring (AATCC)

testing method for fabric coloration dyes, finishes and laundry methods; tested by application , use or measurement of moisture or other liquids. focuses on wet and chemical testing methods

American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM)

this form of testing is on performance of the product. most of their work is dry methods of testing; tested by application of stress and pressure such as elongation and strength

Federal Trade Commission(FTC)

establishes and ministers mandatory labeling requirements

What are the four mandatory labeling requirements?

fiber content, manufacturer identification, country of origin, and care

Direct Sourcing

going directly to a production vendor here or abroad

Sourcing Agents

using intermediaries whose primary task is management of supply chain activities

Trade fairs

attending events expressly produced to bring customers and vendors together

Preliminary Costing

Done before samples are made during the product development stage ; making estimates of the cost based on previous styles

Cost Estimating

this occurs after samples are made; this offers companies a price point where they can measure expenditures (cost sheet)

Detailed costing

this comes after the styles have been adopted in the line butbefore production. This costing is more accurate. Anything that was overlookedon the cost sheet will be picked up here also changes can be made to make sureyou stay in budget like if the skirt is long it may be cut down or the pocketson men's pants may be changed to a cheaper lining.

Actual Cost

thisis the costing that is done after production the most important of them all.This cost is determined by collecting all the data from production the actualcost of materials, price goods, trims, findings, labor, manufacturing etc.