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101 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
Yarn
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Collection of fibers twisted together to form a continuous strand
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Spun yarns
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Natural, short, staple fibers, make spun yarns
Soft, fuzzy, warm |
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Filament yarns
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Synthetic yarns, don't require twist
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Monofilament
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Made of a single fiber
Stiff, rarely used for apparel fabrics |
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Multifilament yarn
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Made of many fibers
Flexible, drapable, good luster, smooth |
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Carding
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Brushing the fibers straight before twisting them together
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Combing
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Removes shorter fibers, makes finer fabric
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Carded + Combed
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Worsted
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Single-ply Yarn
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Fibers are twisted into a single yarn
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Multi-ply yarns
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Consist of 2 or more yarns twisted together
More plies = more strength |
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Core spun yarns
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Fibers twisted around one central fiber
Results in stretchier & softer fabric |
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Microncount
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System of measuring natural fibers
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Denier
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Measure of weight & length
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Simple yarn
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Single or plied yarn
No aesthetic factors |
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Complex/Novelty Yarn
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Lumps & bumps in texture
Result of a combo of spun & filament Decorative, not durable |
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Plied Yarns
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Multiple singles wrapped each other
S or Z twist |
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Multi Filament Yarns
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Many filament fibers grouped together to act as 1 yarn
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Yarn composition may be:
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Blended fiber
Mixed type pure |
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Boucle Yarn
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Complex yarn
French term for "spun" Chanel suit |
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Marl Yarn
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2 plies, different colors
Speckled effect |
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Heatheryarn
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Subtle changes in color throughout entire yarn
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Combination Yarn
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2 plies, different fibers
Burnout effect |
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Crepe Yarn
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High twist
Rough, pebbly surface |
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Twill Weave
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Floats add luster & surface texture
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As twist increases, what happens?
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Yarn strength & stiffness increase
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What is TPI?
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Number of times the fiber was turned around each other in 1 piece of yarn
Degree of twist Affects performance and aesthetic properties |
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What is low twist?
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2 to 12 TPI
Soft spun yarn Not very durable, pills easily, weaker Warmer & fuzzier |
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What is high twist?
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20 to 30 TPI
Hard spun yarn Fine, smooth, strong, durable |
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What is overtwist?
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TPI greater than 40
AKA crepe twist Less durable, more drape |
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Is the yarn count system direct or indirect?
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Indirect
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YPI is a factor of what 4 things?
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stability, durability, quality, and weight
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As YPI goes up, what happens to quality, durability, and weight?
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They go up
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YPI: _______________ X ________________
what what |
warp X weft
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Bigger YPI number means _____________ yarn
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Bigger
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Is the denier system direct or indirect?
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Direct
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What does the denier system represent?
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The weight of 9,000 meters of filament yarn (expressed in grams)
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What system is international & direct?
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The tex system
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When using the yarn size, what does a lower number mean?
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A finer yarn
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What is balance?
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The ratio between warp and weft
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As the denier gets higher, the yarn gets ______ ?
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Coarser and fatter
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What is count?
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The actual number of yarns in both warp and weft
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Is a higher count better or worse?
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Better
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What do fiber content & yarn type determine?
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The final textile, appearance, drape and hand
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What does the "weave" of a fabric refer to?
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The style in which the yarns were interlaced
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What are warp yarns?
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Up and down
Stronger, simpler Usually more warp than weft |
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What are weft yarns?
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Left to right
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To create fabric, the ______ is moved over and under the ________
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Weft, warp
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The yarn laying over top is a
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Riser
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The yarn on bottom is a
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Sinker
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A riser that passes over more than 1 sinker is a
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Float
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What is selvage?
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The finished, sturdy edges of a fabric
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What is cross grain?
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Cutting along weft
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What is straight grain?
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Cutting along warp
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What is the nap of a fabric?
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The direction that the surface texture faces
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What is top weight vs bottom weight?
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Top weight is something that is an appropriate weight for the top half of the body. Bottom weight is an appropriate weight for the bottom half of the body
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What is a plain weave?
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1 to 1 ratio
Most simple & common type of construction Reversible Low luster, poor drape, resistant to snag Each filling yarn goes alternately over and under |
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What is a basket weave?
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Perfectly balanced (2 to 2, 3 to 3)
Less strong, more decorative use Inexpensive to produce |
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What weave is oxford cloth?
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Basket weave
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What is the method of construction for a basket weave?
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2 or more warps are simultaneously interlaced with 1 or more fillings
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What are a few common fabrics from a basket weave?
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Canvas, oxford
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What is a rib weave?
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An unbalanced plain weave
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What characteristics does a rib weave have?
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Strong, poor elasticity, poor drape, good body
Ribbed surface |
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What creates the ribbing on a rib weave?
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A very thick weft. There are either very thick weft yarns, or twice as many weft as warp
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What are some common rib weave fabrics?
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Taffeta
Bengaline Crepe |
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What are the 2 variations of plain weave?
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Basket weave and rib weave
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What is the strongest overall weave?
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Twill
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What are the diagonals of a twill weave called?
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Wales
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What are some categories of a twill weave?
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Very good luster, durble, diagonal surface design
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What is the method of construction for twill?
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Warp floats over 2 or more yarns
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What are some common twill fabrics?
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Denim, chino
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What is the method of construction for a broken twill?
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Weaving alternates between left and right handed twill, resulting in a broken diagonal line
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What are a few common broken twill fabrics?
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Houndstooth, Herringbone
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What are the 3 main groups of wovens?
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Plain, Twill, Satin
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What are a few characteristics of satin?
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High luster, soft, smooth, drapable, floats snag easily
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What is the method of construction for satin?
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Floats one warp yarn over 4 or more weft
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What are a few characteristics of complex weave?
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Heavier and more expensive
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What are some crepe fabrics?
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Chiffon, georgette, crepe back satin
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What are some characteristics of a slack tension weave?
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Wrinkly
Usually a white stripe and a light pastel stripe |
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What is a common slack tension weave fabric?
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Seersucker
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A dobby weave is also known as a
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Mommie weave
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What are the characteristics of a dobby weave?
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Small, geometric patterns on the surface of the fabric
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What are some common fabrics of a dobby weave?
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Dobby shirting, pique
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How is an extra yarn weave constructed?
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An extra yarn is carried along the back and comes up every time they want a dot
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What are some common fabrics of extra yarn weave?
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Clip spot, swiss dot
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How was the Jacquard fabric invented?
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Joseph Marie Jacquard in the 1800s
digital code punched on to cards to tell the yarns where to go seen as 1st computer |
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What are some common Jacquard fabrics?
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Damask, tapestry
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What makes something undoubtly a Jacquard fabric?
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If there is more than 1 weave type involved
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How is a double weave constructed?
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2 fabrics are woven at the same time with a 3rd one that connects them
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What are some common double weave fabrics?
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Matelasse, Double weave shirting
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What are some characteristics of an uncut pile?
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Loops are possible on both sides of the fabric
Usually seen in bathrobes/towels |
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What is the method of construction for an uncut pile fabric?
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A plain weave twill with a 3rd dimension- an additional warp yarn
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What are some common fabrics for uncut pile?
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Terrycloth
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What are some characteristics of a cut pile?
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Warm, soft, absorbent, has a nap
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What is a sign of a nice cut pile?
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The nap all goes in one direction
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What are some common cut pile fabrics?
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Corduroy, velvet, velveteen
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Pile is the Latin word for what?
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Hair
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Pile weaves are 3D, so they are mainly used for?
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Carpeting, stuffed animals, some clothing
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What are the 3 sets of yarns in a cut pile?
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Warp, weft, and yarns making perpindicular loops on surfaces of the other 2
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Why is it important that all pieces of a pile weave be laid in the same direction when constructing the fabric?
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Because due to the nap, if they are facing different directions the light could hit it differently and make it look like it doesn't match
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What does a higher count pile weave mean?
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It will be more durable, resist crushing
(2,000 for a carpet) |
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Common characteristics of pile weaves are?
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Strong, absorbent, soft fuzzy hand
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