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30 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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Fancy Weaves
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Dobby,Jacquard,Tapestry weave, Extra yarn, clipped-dot or clipped-spot,Momie, Slack tension, Leno, Doublecloth (3 kinds), Pile
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Dobby
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small figured designs that require fewer than 25 different warp arrangements to complete one repeat of the design. small, repetitive geometric figures. Bird's eye-small diamond shaped filling-float design with a dot in the center, resembling the eye of a bird-found in cloth diapers. A “dobby loom” has a dobby attachment to make this possible. A dobby loom is a loom on which each harness can be selected without using treadles (foot pedals). Double warp beam.
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Jacquard
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Makes fabric with lots of texture-like the brocade. The pattern frequently doesn’t repeat from edge. Damask-subtle design with light reflections; usually one color; reverse shiny part on back to matte. Brocade-satin or twill floats on back, typically more colorful. Designs involve at least 2 of the basic weaves in various arrangements. Pattern frequently doesn't repeat from edge-repeat would be another picture. In jacquard tapestry, large floats on underside (not so in tapestry weave). loom was forerunner for today’s computers. Every weft has its own punch card of instructions. So labor intensive to thread warps, often only done once. Now modern ones are computer controlled with air jet loom. 25 picks (weft) or more; more than 25 different arrangements of warp yarns. Very fast-6000 picks/minute
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tapestry weave
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pictures, intricate designs, weft yarns run selvage to selvage, large floats on underside, multiple colors in warp and weft. Tapestry: true tapestry weave is hand made, filling faces, plain weave. Weft yarns do not go all the way across. Weft yarns larger than warp. Need multiple shuttles to weave entire width.
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extra yarn
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3rd set of yarn is present, usually in weft. Floats across back and usually cut away during finishing. If extra set is in warp a double warp beam is used. Can create eyelash or fringe effect-like green fabric with lots of loose cut floats.
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clipped-dot or clipped spot
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Extra yarn designs-have many ends/dot, use low twist filling yarns
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Momie
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Also called crepe weave. no wale or other distinct weave effect, looks like small spots or seeds sprinkled; pebbly surface, crepe surface from random interlacings; no two weft yarns make the same repeat, rarely more than 4 yarns in a float. Sand crepe-med/heavy w/random interlacings; spun or filament; no float>2. Moss Crepe-high twist crepe yarns and crepe weave.
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Slack tension
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Seersucker and some terrycloth. Seersucker has a slow weaving process; high cost/low profit. Loop formation during terry weaving. need two warp beams. Yarns on one beam are held at regular, tight tension while other beam’s yarns are looser. Reed beats crinkle or buckle into slack yarns.
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Leno
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warp yarns are paired and twisted before weft is inserted. Same warp is always on top. Weft doesn’t pack as tight-open structure. Marquisette used for sheer curtains. Mosquito netting, window screens are leno weave; some thermal blankets. Can be found in towel selvages.
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Doublecloth (3 kinds)
-double faced -double weave -double cloth |
Doublecloth (3 kinds)-3 or more sets of yarns. Each side has a different appearance. Heavier fabric. (this is the name of a group of fabrics, and its one of the names in the group)-double faced: 3 sets of yarns, double weave: 4 sets of yarns, double cloth: 5 sets of yarns.
-Double Faced: most often 2 warp 1 weft; can be 1 warp 2 weft. Common example is double faced satin ribbon, shiny on both sides. -Double Weave: 2 warps and 2 wefts. Sometimes called “pocket fabric.” Two separate layers of fabric that periodically reverse position from top to bottom, making the two layers interlock. Most often in high quality upholstery fabric. -Double Cloth: 5 sets of yarns: 2 warp, 2 weft, 1 to sew the two fabrics together. Can be used in reversible garments. Expensive; special loom and slow. Melton can be true double cloth. Just two fabrics woven together by a 5th yarn. Costs twice as much, but twice as strong/durable. double cloth has a special loom. |
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Pile
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velvet, velveteen, corduroy, some terry. 3 dimensional. Extra warp or filling woven into the ground to make loops or cut ends on surface of fabric. High count-beautiful and durable. Low count-absorbent, e.g. towels. Need a durable ground cover for good performance of a pile fabric. Can be made with an extra warp yarn or an extra weft yarn. Velvet is a warp pile (it has weft that makes the pile-the tufts). Velveteen and corduroy are weft pile fabrics (the warp makes the pile).
Warp Pile-pile can be inserted with a W or a V interlacing. W is more sturdy. V can pull out. |
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Know which of the swatch test fabrics are fancy weaves
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1. Jacquard: Damask, Brocade
2. Double: Velvet 3. Pile: Velvet, terrycloth, corduroy, velveteen 4. Stack tension: Seersucker |
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Know the three kinds of double cloth, how they differ
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# Double Faced: 3 sets of yarns, common example is double faced satin ribbon, shiny on both sides. 2 warp 1 weft, or 1 warp 2 weft.
# Double Weave: 4 sets of yarns, 2 warps and 2 wefts, sometimes called "pocket fabric," two separate layers of fabric that periodically reverse position from top to bottom, making the two layers interlock. # Double Cloth: 5 sets of yarns, 2 warp 2 weft 1 to sew fabrics permanently together, used in reversible garments, expensive, special loom. (melton can be true double cloth) Twice as thick, twice the insulation. |
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Know how pile weaves are made, the options (filling versus warp), how corduroy differs from velvet or velveteen, the corduroy process, the difference between U and W pile insertion.
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* Extra warp or filling woven into the ground to make loops or cut ends on surface of fabric
* Filling: o •Filling pile-long filling floats on the surface •Always cut •1 warp 2 weft •Corduroy (floats arranged in rows and later cut by revolving knives) and Velveteen (floats are scattered over the surface unlike corduroy) * Warp: o •Pile can be inserted with a W or a V interlacing •W is more sturdy •V can pull out o Velvet is a warp pile o Velveteen and Corduroy are weft pile fabrics |
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Know the basic loom setup for slack tension weaves, how the wrinkly look is woven in
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Need two warp beams
•Yarns on one beam are held at regular, tight tension while other beam’s yarns are looser •Reed beats crinkle or buckle into slack yarns |
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Know how tapestry WEAVE differs from jacquard tapestry
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* Tapestry weave is hand made, filling faced, plain weave. The weft yarns do not go all the way across. Weft yarns are larger than warp. Needs multiple shuttles to weave entire width.
* Jacquard tapestry - Has pictures and intricate designs. Weft yarns run selvage to selvage. Large floats on underside. Multiple colors in warp and weft. |
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be able to describe the knitting process, i.e. how the fabric actually forms in general
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Knitting machines use needles. Three kinds, all have a looped end. Latch hook is the only one we will look at.
- knits have no warp and no weft yarns - a column of stitches is called a “Wale” - a row is called a “course” - for a knit to be on grain, these need to be perpendicular. • Technical face is up as fabric is being knit. • Technical back is down as fabric is being knit. • The 3rd side is the “effect side” or the side to be used as the face of the product. –Could be technical face or back hand knitting: a yarn is looped onto one needle, another needle is inserted into the first stitch, the yarn is positioned around the needle, and by manipulating the needle a new stitch is formed while being transferred onto a second needle. machine knitting: many needles are set into the needle bed of a knitting machine and the stitch is made in a series of steps. By the end of the first step, one needle has gone through a complete up-and-down motion, and a new stitch has been formed. |
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gauge
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ndicates fineness of stitch or number of needles in a specific distance on the needle bar. Higher cut or gauge= finer fabric. Measured before shrinkage
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wale
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a column of stitches
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course
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a row of stitches
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weft knitting
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hand knitting is weft knitting. one yarn runs across a needle set. one yarn or yarn set is carried back and forth (or around) and under needles to form a fabric. Loops in a horizontal pattern. Lots of needles and one yarn • Series of needles in a bed with one or a set of yarns laid across and back or circularly. Sew in tubes. • The technical face of weft knits shows columns of V’s. • The technical back of weft knits shows rows of m’s and w’s.
knit stitches: –Pull yarn through stitch from back to front –More crosswise stretch and less lengthwise purl stitches: –Pull yarn through stitch from front to back –Slow, expensive to knit; heavy; reversible tuck stitches: –Two stitches on one needle, one from previous row; makes bubbles or puckers float stitches: –No new stitch formed, yarn runs across back; much less crosswise stretch |
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warp knitting
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can not be done by hand knitting. many yarns and many needles. a process in which a warp beam is set into a machine and yarn sets are interlooped to form a fabric. yarns move upwards in a zig-zag fashion. many yarns and many needles.
• Every needle has its own yarn • One yarn set = one warp beam and one guide bar = one bar tricot • Two yarn sets = two warp beams and two guide bars = two bar tricot • Cannot do by hand • Fastest way to make fabric from yarn • Less resilient and lighter weight than weft knits • Vertical loop structure • Requires very regular yarns |
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full fashion knitting
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the process of shaping knit garments during the knitting process by adding or decreasing stitches. shapes parts like armholes
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single knit
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the simplest filling knit. it is made using one set of needles. made using a circular or flatbed machine with one set of needles.
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double knit
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(remember: "RIP Double knits!") any filling-knit fabric made on 2 needle beds. two needle beds at right angles except for Purl. Rib, Interlock, and Purl. Loops don’t match each other like interlock. In rib, both needle beds knit at the same time. In interlock only one set can knit at a time.
• Two way stretch • BUT Relatively high dimensional stability • No curl at edges • Less likely to stretch out than single knits • Do not run • Can resemble wovens Rib knits: • Rib structure is made of face wales and back wales • Lengthwise ridges on both sides • Names by number of stitches per column –1 x 1, 2 x 2, 1 x 2 , etc. • Can stretch twice as much as jersey • No curl but can run Interlock: • The simplest double knit • Two 1 x 1 rib structures intermeshed • Reversible • No curling, only runs from one end • Soft, fluid • Stitches are exactly opposite each other along the cut crosswise edge –(Stitches alternate on a double knit jersey which can look like an interlock) Purl: • Pull loop through old loop from front to back; or push loop away from front • If all stitches are purled it’s a purl knit fabric and is reversible; much thicker than jersey • A double knit-2 needle beds • Most expensive and slower machine; most versatile • Two needle beds and double latch needle • Slowest, but most versatile • Can run and ravel, but do not curl gaiting: describes the arrangement of needles in a double-knitting machine. rip, interlock, or purl. |
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what weft knits are on the swatch test? how do you identify each?
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Jersey: a knit fabric made solely of knit stitches, surface is composed of columns of V's while the back is made of rows of m's and w's. very stretchy across
Jersey Variations: Polar fleece: extra yarn laid in in the weft direction, not knitted in; brushed later; restricts crosswise stretch but not lengthwise; soft, fuzzy, somewhat stretchy pique knit:a knit with regularly repeating bumpy texture resulting from altered loop formation; no extra yarn; tiny diamond or honeycomb pattern on one side • Most commonly used in golf shirts stretch terry: the third yarn makes loops like woven terry but fabric still stretches; reverse side still shows columns of “V’s” • Technical back is the face of fabric jacquard: jersey having a color pattern on the face side and long floats on the back; made by knitting or missing each stitch to introduce the needed colors on the face Interlock: two jersey layers knitted together; reversible; V’s on both sides; always thicker than jersey and somewhat stiffer; needles in each layer lie directly across from each other, they are not staggered Rib Knit: columns of V’s interspersed regularly with columns of m’s; reversible; stretchiest of all the knits; can be 1 X 1, 2 X 2, 1 X 2, etc |
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what warp knits are on the swatch test? how do you identify each?
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Tricot: made of a “lock stitch” which appears on the face as columns of V’s and on the back as rows of sideways V’s • Little elasticity lengthwise, some crosswise • Used in lingerie (slips), sleepwear, blouses, uniforms -slippery • Filament yarns, either smooth or textured
Raschel: (include laces) made up of chainlike loops called “pillars” with laid-in yarns in various lapping configurations • Coarser texture, more open than tricot Velour: (can also be a weft with an inserted yarn) knit velvet; very short pile similar to velveteen; extra yarn knitted in to make pile restricts stretch somewhat; sheared, brushed warp knit |
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What is a weft insertion jersey?
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polar fleece, french terry
you don’t knit it in, you lay it on there and knit around it. This retards the stretch. You can do variations with weft insertion jerseys. • Another weft yarn is laid in the loops but not knit in. • Can be novelty, large, irregular, very low twist and too weak for normal knitting • can Increase crosswise stability, add visual interest, increase crosswise strength, or add comfort • Can be used to create nap during finishing |
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How do weft knits compare to warp knits?
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In weft knits, one yarn runs across a needle set. There are a series of needles in a bed with one or a set of yarns laid across and back or circularly. Technical face of weft knits shows columns of V's. The technical back of weft knits shows rows of m's and w's. Weft knitting types - knit, purl, tuck, float. In warp yarns, many yarns and each needle has its own needle (which cannot be done by hand). Warp knitting is the fastest way to make fabric from yarn. It's less resilient and lighter weight than weft knits. It has a vertical loop structure and requires very regular yarns.
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If you break down interlock you find it is really what knit structure(s)?
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It's the simplest double knit. Two 1x1 rib structures intermeshed.
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