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80 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
distance from trough to trough, or the length of one wave cycle
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wavelength (L)
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time it takes a full wave cycle to pass a given point; equation based on frequency
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period (T) = 1/f
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vertical distance from trough to crest; equation based on amplitude
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height (H) = 2A
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maximum wave height from static sea level; equation based on height
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amplitude (A) = H/2
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number of waves that pass a point in a given time; equation based on period; units
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frequency (f) = 1/T ; Hertz
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equation for wave steepness based on height and wavelength
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steepness = H/L
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what is the minimum wave steepness required for a wave to break
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1/7
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top of a wave; bottom of a wave
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crest; trough
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the shape of a wave
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waveform
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shape of gravity waves with pointed crests and rounded troughs
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trochoidal
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wave velocity or speed; equation based on frequency and wavelength
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celerity (C) = fL
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force that destroys waves
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restoring force
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restoring force for ripple waves; restoring force for large waves
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surface tension; gravity
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force that creates a wave
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disturbing force
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imaginary level of water if there were no waves present
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still water level [zero energy level, static sea level]
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area where wind-generated waves are created
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sea
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bending of waves as they approach shallow depths and touch bottom
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refraction
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what shore feature experiences accelerated erosion due to wave refraction
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headland
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lines perpendicular to wave fronts that show direction of propagation/movement
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orthogonal lines [wave rays]
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bending of waves around an obstacle
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diffraction
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a wave bounces off a rigid surface at an angle equal to its original angle of incidence
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reflection
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angle between a line running perpendicular to a surface and an orthogonal line of an incoming wave
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angle of incidence
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area where reflection occurs off of a jetty at Newport Harbor, California and causes constructive interference of waves
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the Wedge
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patterns that occur when multiple waves collide or mix
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interference patterns
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resultant size and form of waves that have mixed, which is the addition of wave heights
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superposition
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interference in phase, where crests meet with crests, troughs with troughs, and the result is a wave with greater extremes (lower troughs, higher crests)
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constructive interference
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interference out of phase, where crests meet with troughs and cancel each other out completely
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destructive interference
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interference between constructive and destructive
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mixed interference
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a wave that "feels bottom" and has a celerity approximately proportional to depth
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shallow-water wave
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a wave that has no components touching the sea floor and whose speed depends on its period
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deep-water wave
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a wave that "feels bottom" but is intermediate between shallow and deep
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transitional wave
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what is the maximum depth of a shallow water wave; minimum depth of a deep-water wave
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L/20; L/2
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waves that are releasing energy as they fall apart
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breakers
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why does a wave break in shallow water
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bottom slows due to friction but top continues moving and topples over the front
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the varied sequence of high and low waves
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surf beat
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for which is the surf is rougher, choppier, and more irregular: waves from local winds or distant storms
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local winds (less sorting has occurred)
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open ocean breakers
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whitecaps
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zone between the shoreline and the farthest breakers
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surf zone [breaker zone]
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zone on beach where waves wash up on the land
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swash zone
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breaker that breaks quickly and destructively on a steep beach
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surging breaker
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breaker with a curling crest that is good for surfing and forms on a moderately-sloped beach
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plunging breaker [barrel wave, tube wave]
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breaker that breaks slowly and gently on a gently-sloped beach
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spilling breaker
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do the following values increase or decrease as a wave approaches the shore: eccentriciy, height, steepness, celerity, wavelength
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increase, increase, increase, decrease, decrease
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water that washes up onto the beach; water that flows back into the ocean from the beach
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swash; backwash
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sorting of waves by wavelength due to differing speeds
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dispersion
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sorted group of waves that formed in the same area and have similar characteristics, such as period and speed
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wave train
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how much faster does a wave in a wave train move than the train itself
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2x as fast
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area where waves have reached maximum size for a given wind source
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fully developed sea
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the distance over which waves move from a choppy sea to low wind, where they become swells
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decay distance
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what wave feature is wave energy proportional to
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height or amplitude
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what 3 factors increase a wave's energy
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fetch, duration, wind speed
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what 3 wave features does wind increase
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height, wavelength, celerity
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type of wave that keeps traveling forward
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progressive wave
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type of wave where particles move a circular pattern
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orbital wave
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type of wave with particle motion that is parallel to wave propagation
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longitudinal wave
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type of wave with particle motion that is perpendicular to wave propagation
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transverse wave
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are water waves orbital, transverse, or longitudinal
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orbital
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depth at which orbital motion of waves above ceases to exist; how deep is this depth
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wave base; d = L/2
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wave in a partially or completely closed body of water that appears only to move up and down
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standing wave
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standing wave initiated by strong winds or a seismic disturbance within a partially enclosed basin and strengthened by tides
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seiche wave
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frequency required for a standing wave pattern to occur
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resonance frequency
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points of no motion on a standing wave; points of maximum vertical motion on a standing wave
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nodes; antinodes
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slight net movement of water forward with each wave, resulting in a net transport of mass
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wave drift
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small-wavelength (L< 1.74 cm) waves with rounded crests and pointed troughs
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capillary waves [ripples]
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waves restored by gravity that have a trochoidal waveform
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gravity waves
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long wavelength, low steepness, well-sorted waves that originated in an area with higher wind speeds than the area they are identified in
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swell
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a wave pushed by the wind; a wave that moves because it has stored momentum
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forced wave; free wave
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abnormally large wave in the context of other waves around it
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rogue wave
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rogue waves are common here because large waves from Antarctic storms meet the Antarctic Circumpolar Current
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Wild Coast (southeast Africa)
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wave created by a movement of a mass into the water, such as calving icebergs or landslides
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splash wave
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place where the largest wave ever recorded occurred due to an enormous rockslide in 1958; how tall
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Lituya Bay, Alaska; 530 m
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large waves that exist underwater between water of different densities (at the pycnocline)
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internal waves
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shallow-water wave with a long wavelength produced by a large, quick seismic disturbance
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tsunami
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3 possible causes of a tsunami
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volcanic eruption, earthquake, landslide
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which ocean has the most tsunamis
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Pacific Ocean
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NOAA program that warns people of tsunamis using data from a network of buoys
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Pacific Tsunami Warning Center (PTWC)
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where did the most destructive tsunami on record originate; when
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near Sumatra, in the Indian Ocean; December, 2004
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waves behind a boat or ship
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wake
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a sign that a tsunami is coming
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temporary drop in local sea level
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what does tsunami mean in Japanese
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harbor wave
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