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183 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
Nature |
a general term describing the chemical type of material such as the fiber content or metal and it's physical structure (i.e. woven fabric) |
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Characteristics |
a general term describing physical aspects of materials including their weight, finish or dimensional aspects (i.e. yarn count of the fabric) |
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Worth Street Textile Market Rules |
a standard code of practices for marketing textile materials in the United States that address: business practices and define/address standard textile practices |
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Staple |
short |
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Filament |
long |
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Crimp |
wave |
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Cross-Sectional Shape |
cut right |
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Fiber Characteristics |
fiber content, fiber quality, yarn quality, fabric quality, and end product quality |
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Why is fiber content important? |
fibers present, percentages, care/handling, cost, and promotion
consumers and manufacturers need to know what fibers are present in a garment |
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Textile Fiber Products Identification Act |
also known as the "Textile Labeling Rule," requires brands to attach a label to covered textile products containing the generic names and percentages by weight of each fiber in the product, the name under which the manufacturer or other responsible party does business or RN number, and the name of the country in which the product was processed or manufactured |
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Wool Products Labeling Act |
requires persons manufacturing or selling products containing wool to accurately label each item with the fiber content and origin |
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How can we identify fiber content? |
qualitative and quantitative methods |
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Qualitative Methods |
identification of the generic fiber types present in a textile product; burn test, melting point (synthetic), microscoping ((natural), solubility |
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Quantitative Methods |
determine the percentage by weight of each generic fiber present in blends; weigh fibers present, microscoping (counting fibers), |
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Yarn Type & Structure |
how the yarn was made, the components used to produce the yarn, and the nature or character of the components |
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Yarn Number |
"yarn count," describes the size of the yarn |
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Yarn Twist |
describes the number of times the fibers in the yarn turn around the lengthwise central axis per unit measure; s- and z-twist |
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Yarn Defects & Yarn Quality |
neps, slubs, hairiness, thick/thin |
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Yarn Defects |
refer to irregularities within the yarn that are not deliberately part of the yarn |
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Yarn Quality |
absence of localized or periodic faults in the yarn ; yarn strength and elongation performance, bulk properties of textured yarns, shrinkage of yarns, yarn evenness, and friction coefficient |
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Fabric Characteristics |
fabrication and fabric density (count and gauge) |
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Fabrication |
refers to the technique used to produce the fabric |
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Fabric Density |
describes the number of components in the fabric per unit measure |
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Count |
the number of yarns in the lengthwise and crosswise direction of the fabrics in one inch or centimeter |
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Gauge |
refers to the needles per inch of the knitting machine used to knit the fabric |
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Weighing & Measuring the Fabric |
fabric mass per unit area, fabric packaging, length and width (put-ups) |
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Fabric Mass Per Unit Area |
weight, important factor in determining fabric amount, cost, and quality |
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Length |
used to describe the linear quantity of fabric delivered or used |
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Width |
describes the full usable width of the fabric from one edge to the other |
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Put-Ups |
length of fabric on the roll or bolt with lighter weight, soft fabrics that weigh less than 6 oz/yd2 |
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Light Weight |
less than 4 oz per yard |
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Medium Weight |
4-7 oz per yard |
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Heavy Weight |
over 7 oz per yard |
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Type of Fabric Defects |
fabric deformations, bow and skew, crimp and take-up, and barre |
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Fabric Deformations |
fabric rolled unevenly |
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Bow |
crosswise yarns form one or more arcs as it moves across the fabric |
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Skew |
crosswise yarn forms some angle other than 90 degrees as it moves across the fabric |
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Crimp |
undulations or waves in a yarn as a result of a woven or knit fabric structure |
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Take-Up |
additional length of yarn needed to produce a piece of fabric |
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Barre |
unintentional, repetitive visual pattern of continuous bars and stripes usually parallel to the filling of woven fabric or the courses of a circular knit fabric |
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Fabric Finishes |
chemical or physical treatments of materials to enhance appearance or performance (metallic coat, fire retardant, water repellent, etc.) |
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Fabric Quality |
based on the quality of each component used to produce and finish the fabric, as well as the way in which the various components interact |
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Defects |
departure or nonconformance of some characteristic from its intended level or state (patent, latent, and grade) |
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Patent Defects |
flaws and irregularities that can be perceived during examination or inspection of the material |
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Latent Defects |
hidden problem that is not apparent no matter how carefully the material or product is examined |
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Grade |
numerical value assigned to a fabric based on the number, size, and severity of the defect; defects, demerits, penalty points |
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Defects, Demerits, Penalty Points |
based on the length of the defect |
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Closures |
zippers, buttons, hooks and eyes, hook and loop fasteners, snaps |
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Thread |
special type of yarn that will pass through a sewing machine rapidly, form a stitch efficiently and consistently, and perform adequately in a textile product |
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Elastics |
narrow fabric used to create an expandable opening in a product |
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Trims |
include a wide range of materials and treatments that enhance the aesthetics of a textile product |
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Interlinings, Linings, and Other Support Materials |
provide foundation for product shape, support areas subjected to stress, help maintain a products appearance, enhance comfort, or enclose interior parts for aesthetic or performance reasons |
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Strike-Through |
when the bonding agent appears on the face of the fashion fabric |
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Differential Shrinkage |
when the fashion and interlining fabrics do not shrink at the same rate |
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Delamination |
layers of interlining and fashion fabric separate completely or as bubbles or puckers in certain areas |
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Boardiness |
unattractive change of hand is another problem that can occur with fusible interlinings |
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Sewn-in Labels |
must be compatible with the other materials used in the product and the care as stated on the care label |
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Hangtags |
include info. at point of sale, but they are not required to be permamnent |
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Quality Assurance |
designing producing, evaluating and assessing goods to determine if they will meet the company's target market |
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Standards and Specifications |
used to determine the level of quality for all goods and each element within the good; the standards and specs define quality for a product |
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Testing |
takes place to ensure that each element going into the goods are up to the standards and specifications required to produce the good that will be acceptable for the company and company's target market |
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Durability Testing |
evaluates how the various materials used in a product perform when they are subjected to conditions that address their durability
failure occurs when the fabric tears, cracks, snags or pills to the point it would be unacceptable to consumers; there are no pass/fail tests |
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What happens during durability testing? |
fabrics are tested in new condition
writing performance specs is is complex but companies do this for quality assurance |
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Factors Affecting Durability |
type of fiber, yarn, fabric structure, fabric weight, finishes |
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Strength Testing |
evaluates several dimensions by which failure related to durability can occur |
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Strength Testing and Force |
the amount of force exerted on the fabric is a measure of energy used to produce the failure (force is measured as mass amount/ weight: i.e. pounds, grams; expressed as "pounds of force" (lbf) |
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How is strength tested? |
fabric is tested in both directions (warp and filling or courses and wales), fabric is often tested in various conditions, fabric specimens are tested from close to the center of the piece, results can skew if you test it from the selvage |
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Tensile Testing Machines |
the resistance of a material to breaking under tension |
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What does ASTM stand for? |
American Society Testing Materials |
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What does ASTM do in the textile industry? |
dry testing and develop specs and terminology for industry |
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Tensile Testing Machines Methods |
constant rate of extension (CRE), constant rate of traverse (CRT), constant rate of loading (CRL) |
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Constant Rate of Extension (CRE) |
pulling clamp moves at a uniform rate and force is measured by the moving mechanism, the pulling increases and fabric elongates and force is continually measured until the fabric ruptures |
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Constant Rate of Traverse (CRT) |
pulling clamp moves at a uniform rate and force is applied from the other clamp where the measuring device is located producing a rate of increase/force |
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Constant Rate of Loading (CRL) |
least common method; rate of increase of force is uniform after the first 3 seconds |
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Tensile Strength |
the strength of a material under tension and is expressed in the terms of force (breaking force/strength, breaking elongation) |
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Breaking Force/Strength |
the force needed to rupture fabric |
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Breaking Elongation |
the elongation corresponding to the breaking force |
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Tensile tests measure the resistance of a material to... |
stretching |
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Tensile Strength: Breaking Force and Elongation |
grab test and ASTM D 5034 Grab Test |
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Grab Test |
uses wider specimens and usually just woven and non-wovens ( not knits); takes into account surrounding fabric; most realistic |
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ASTM D 5034 Grab Test |
modified grab test, stress-strain curve, breaking point, yield point |
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Modified Grab Test |
includes lateral slits in the fabric; usually used only on wovens or fabrics that are prone to raveling (note the red lines) |
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Stress-Strain Curve |
the relationship between the material's resistance to stress and its deformation /elongation caused by a strain; a graph |
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Breaking Point |
the point the curve stops and the material ruptures |
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Yield Point |
the point the stress cannot be recovered in the fabric; permanent damage |
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Tearing Strength |
measures a material's resistance to start or continue a tear |
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Tearing Strength Methods |
trapezoid method and tongue test |
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Trapezoid method |
slit is cut in the fabric and force increases until yarns tear |
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Tongue Test |
is similar but specimen size is different and machine is different, creates tears with a falling pendulum |
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Bursting Strength |
the capacity of a material to resist the force or pressure required to rupture it by expanding it with force applied at right angles; with the force the fabric bubbles and finally ruptures or tears
both warp and filling are subjected to the force so separate tests are not needed , thread is also tested this way |
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Bursting Strength Test Methids |
ball burst test (amount of pressure it takes a ball to rupture fabric), diaphragm bursting test |
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Friction |
describes the resistance to relative motion between two objects in physical contact with each other; smooth materials create less friction than rough materials |
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Friction Testing |
abrasion resistance, pile retention, piling, snagging |
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Types of Abrasion Resistance |
flat/planar abrasion, flex abrasion, edge abrasion |
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Flat/Planar Abrasion |
when a flat object is rubbed against a flat material |
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Flex Abrasion |
material is bent/flexed when rubbing
wyzenbeek |
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Edge Abrasion |
material is folded back on itself while being abraded; most show damage her first
accelerator method; specimen is turned inside a cylindrical chamber lined with an abrasive metal |
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How iare the abrasion resistance methods evaluated? |
endpoint, percentage loss in breaking force, visual charge |
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Endpoint |
counts the number of cycles until the fabric ruptures, 2 or more yarns have broken or a hole appears |
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Percentage Loss in Breaking Force |
breaking force is measured by being subjected to a specific amount of force before being measured |
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Visual Change |
the effect on the luster, color, surface nap/piling, matting or other appearance changes
abrasion specs are written as minimums martindale taber abraser |
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Pile Retention |
the degree to which cut-pile yarns are held secure and intact; resist pile loss |
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Pilling Resistance |
measures the resistance to form pills on a textile surface; fiber ends work to the surface of the fabric, abrade, break off and entangle with other fibers on the surface of the fabric |
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Piling Propensity |
the ease and extent of piling |
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Martindale Pressure Tester |
similar to the martindale abrasion resistance but two pieces pieces of the same fabric are rubbed together to simulate piling |
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Random Tumble Pilling Tester |
tumbled in a cylinder lined with cork with added lint to generate pills; pills are evaluated |
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Brush Tester |
uses 2 rotating platforms; one is a nylon brush and brushes against the fabric then the brush is removed and the specimens rub against each other to form pills |
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Snagging |
a portion of the fabric structure catches on an abradant material producing a change in the fabric appearance, structure or yarn structure creating: distortion, protrusion, snag |
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Snagging Test MEthods |
bean bag snag test and mace test |
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Distortion |
visible defects in fabric texture |
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Protrusion |
visible group of fibers, yarn portion or yarn sticking above the fabric surface |
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Snag |
yarn or yarn portion pulled up from the surface of fabric |
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Yarn Distortion |
refers to a condition of woven fabrics where symmetrical surfaces of the fabric is altered by shifting or sliding yarns (warp or filling yarns) |
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Frosting |
a change in fabric color caused by localized abrading; dyes that don't penetrate the fibers/fabric well, brought on by wear/excessive force, can be deliberately added for appearance |
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Hoop & Loop Fasteners Methods |
peel strength test and shear strength |
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Peel Strength Test |
used to assess the strength necessary to separate the two parts of the fastener |
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Shear Strength |
amount of force required to cause the two parts to slide on each other; causing separation |
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Snap Fasteners |
tested to determine their ability to resist a pull both perpendicular and parallel to the plane that they are attached |
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Fusible Interlinings |
tested to determine the boding strength of composite fabrics (laminated, fused, bonded fabrics); bond strength is the force required to separate the layers |
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Buttons |
tested for impact resistance or it's ability to resist fracturing when force is applied |
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Zippers |
tested for crosswise strength, element pull-off, element slippage and holding strength of zipper stups |
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Durability testing is testing 2 key things: |
force and abrasion |
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Ch. 7 |
7 |
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Comfort |
how materials interact with the body and addresses how the body's functional environment can be expanded |
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Elongation |
expressed as a percentage of the ratio of a material to its length before stretching |
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Stretch |
an increase in one dimension due to force exerted on the material |
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Comfort Stretch |
small increases in material dimensions due to movement |
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Elastic Fabric |
made with an elastomeric material (i.e. nylon/spandex) |
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Stretch Yarn Fabric |
made using at least some yarns with a high degree of stretch/rapid recovery |
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Low Power Stretch |
material with high stretch/good recovery when small load/force applied |
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Fabric Stretch |
expressed as %, increase in length of fabric from load applied under specific conditions |
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Fabric Growth |
expressed as %, difference between original length and length after load removed |
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Heat |
the internal energy within an object, measured by temperature |
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Calorie |
the amount of energy needed to raise 1g of water 1 degree Celsius |
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Heat Transfer |
the flow of internal energy between a hot object and a cold object |
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Conduction |
heat transfer by direct contact |
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Convection |
hot molecules mix with cool molecules |
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Radiation |
the transmission of energy between objects that are in straight lines of sight |
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Phase Change |
when an object changes its physical state |
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Evaporation |
from a liquid to a vapor |
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Condensation |
from a vapor to a liquid |
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Moisture Absorbency |
the ability of one material (absorbent) to take in or absorb another material (absorbate) |
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Saturation Point |
when a material is saturated when it can no longer absorb additional moisture, excess moisture may either pool around the material or pass through it |
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Specular Reflectance |
the shiny reflective surface of a drop of water when it beads up on a surface |
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Water Repellancy |
the relative resistance of a material to any single aspect or combination of surface wetting, water penetration or water absorbency |
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Water Resistance |
the ability of a material to withstand penetration by water under pressure or water that drops from a distance and strikes against a material with a known amount of force, such as driving rain |
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Waterproof |
materials are coated composite materials that have closed pores or very tiny interstices that resist water penetration regardless of the pressure or force |
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Water Vapor Transmission |
measures the speed with which water vapor passes through a material |
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Dessicant |
a compound that absorbs water vapor from the air, thereby maintaining a low relative humidity in its immediate environment |
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Thickness |
the distance through the fabric from one surface to the other
affects comfort in terms of heat transfer, flexibility, bulk, and drape; important in terms of planning for production, shipping, packaging, and handling |
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Hand & Skin Contact |
important aesthetic and comfort characteristic; also affects spreading, cutting, sewing, and handling operations during manufacturing |
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Hand |
the tactile sensations or impressions that arise when materials are touched, squeezed, rubbed, or otherwise handled |
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Skin Contact |
occurs when the surface of the skin touches a material, but it is a static condition in which neither the material nor the body is required to move or interact for any sensation to occur |
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Stiffness |
measure of a fabric's resistance to bending or flexing
assessed in hand and relates to other performance measures; affects fabric drape, resistance to roll such as in waistbands, resistance to wrinkling, and other aspects related to comfort and aesthetics |
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Flexural Rigidity |
measure of material stiffness that is calculated using fabric mass and length of overhang |
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Drape |
describes how a material falls or hangs or flows over a three-dimensional form
no standard test methods are used to determine drape
nonstandard procedure that uses the drapememter |
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Air Permeability |
rate of air flow passing vertically through a known area of material when an air pressure difference exists between the two sides of the material |
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Wind Resistance |
affects the behavior of material that is confronted by or exposed to a dynamic condition of rapidly moving air (wind) |
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Electrostatic Propensity |
measure of the capacity of a nonconducting material to acquire and hold an electrical charge through friction or other means |
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Electrostatic Cling |
the propensity of one material to adhere to another because of an electrical charge on one or both sides |
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Light Reflectance, Transmittance, and Absorbtion |
the ability of these materials to allow light to enter a structure is assessed by illuminating a specimen and measuring the light reflected, transmitted, and absorbed |
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Safety |
the physical ricks to which the user of a textile product is exposed, involves strength and durability characteristics |
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Flammability |
the way a material reacts to heat, the manner in which ignites and burns, the ease or difficulty with which a burning textile is extinguished, the type of ash or melt remaining, and the amount of smoke produced
common property of most materials used for apparel, furnishings, and some industrial products |
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Mandatory Procedures |
Flammable Fabrics Act Amended Flammable Fabrics Act the intent of mandatory testing is to remove unsafe materials and products from the market |
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Char Length |
the amount of fabric consumed or damaged by the flame |
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Voluntary Procedures |
testing material flammability is voluntary for these product types; some procedures include performance specifications, but most do not |
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Ultraviolet Radiation |
source of damaging energy to organic materials, including hair, fiber, and skin |
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Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF) |
calculated as the ratio of the UVR radiance at the detector with no specimen to the UVR irradiance at the detector with a specimen present |
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Biological Resistance |
a materials ability to block the transmission of organisms through it |
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Material Specifications |
identify the test method by organization and number, the desired measure of performance, the option within the procedure, and the unit by which that performance characteristic is measured |
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Thermal Protection |
the amount of heat transfer protection provided by a material when it is exposed to an open flame |
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Chemical Resistance |
materials ability to block the transmission of chemicals through it |
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Permeation |
involves chemical movement through the material at a molecular level |
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Penetration |
the flow of chemical through closures, porous materials, seams, pinholes, and other imperfection sof a material on a nonmolecular level |
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Breakthough Time |
measured by exposure to the first detectable presence of the chemical on the other side of the material |
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Permeation Rate |
the volume of chemical that passes through the material in a given time unit |
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Degradation |
a loss or negative change in one or more material |
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Impact Resistance |
the ability of a material to withstand high-speed loading or a significant force applied to a small area |
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Health |
the interaction of physical, mental, emotional, and social aspects of the individual |
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Allergens |
foreign materials that cause a physical reaction by the body after exposure |
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Irritants |
materials that produce a very mild pain sensation, such as rough materials that abrade, poke, or stab the skin |
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Formaldehyde |
a chemical compound that had been used in finishing of cotton and cellulosic materials |
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Formaldehyde Release |
the amount of formaldehyde evolved from textiles in accelerated storage conditions and includes free (unbonded) formaldehyde as well as formaldehyde released by the degradation of finishes |