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129 Cards in this Set

  • Front
  • Back
What is oceanography?
An interdisciplinary science- geology, chemistry, physics, biology, engineering
Describe inner planets
telluric, heavier materials with high melting and boiling temperatures
Describe the outer planets
cold giants, lighter elements with low melting and boiling temperatures
When was the universe formed?
15 billion years ago
When did the Earth form?
4.5 billion years ago
Plate tectonics is a combination of what two ideas?
1.) a combo of Continental drift and sea-floor spreading
2.) Describes the movement of plates and the forces acting between them
3.) Explains large-scale geological features that result from the movement at plate boundaries – mountain chains, volcanoes, earthquakes, sea-floor structures
What is continental drift?
the moving of continents over the Earth's surface and in their change in position relative to each other
What is sea-floor spreading?
the creation of new oceanic crust at mid-ocean ridges and movement of the crust away from the mid-ocean ridges
Who is Wegener?
1.) German meteorologist proposed the idea of Continental Drift in 1912
2.) Continental Drift: large-scale movements of the continents over the globe
3.) Proposed that 200 million yrs ago a super-continent called Pangaea existed and slowly the continents split apart
What are the Hawaiian Islands?
chain islands on top of a hot spot
What were vessels made out of?
animal or vegetal material
How did the Greeks measure latitude?
By measuring the north star (stars remained fixed in the horizon throughout the year, rotating about a common point)
What were the Vikings famous for?
they were raiders, sailors and had great ships (called Drakars), they were bad at writing things down, and they were the first to reach Iceland and Greenland
What were the Chinese famous for?
Boats with several masts and they discovered the compass
Who were the 2 major expanding provincial realms?
The vikings and the chinese
How did the Europeans help with exploration in the 1400's?
They did nothing because they thought the Earth was flat and that the ocean would boil
Who is the father of oceanography?
John Murry... also identified more than 4700 species, mapped ocean floor, recorded temperature, salinity, currents
What did James Cook do?
First to use the chronometer to determine longitude, he helped control diets of sailors and prevented scurvey
Who invented scuba?
William James in the 1900's
Explain the Big Bang
o Earth was formed due to density stratification, the elements that are heavier form the core and the lighter ones go to edge. Earth was formed 4.5 billion years ago. Say that there are other things are being tested – expanding and contracting. Testing in Switzerland
What are the characteristics of ridges?
slopes are steep and narrow
what are characteristics of rifts?
Slopes are gentle and wide and in the middle there are rift valleys
Mid-ocean ridges are?
a zone of earthquakes (active seismic)
What do diverging plates do? What are examples?
plates separate causing ridges, (Mid-oceanic ridge, Iceland, Red Sea)
What do converging plates do? What is an example?
move towards each other
What is ENSO?
El Nino Southern Oscillation... usually pressure the eastern Margin of the ecuatorial Pacific is at a higher pressure than the western margin.. but during an el nino the pressure will change.. low pressure sets over the middle to eastern margin of the ocean causing disruption of trade winds and intense rain in a dry region... also normally the South Equatorial Current Current moves warm water from east to west.. during an Southern Oscillation, the Southern Equatorial Current loses its driving force and dies.. other currents become strengthened and return warm water which blocks the normal upwelling that usually occurs
What is an example of ocean divergent plates?
Mid-oceanic Ridge
What is an example of land divergent plates?
Iceland
What is an example of diverging sea plates?
Red Sea
What is an example of ocean convergent plates?
Marianus Trench
What is an example of land convergent plates?
Himalayas
What is an example of Ocean against land convergent plates?
Andes Mountains
What are the characteristics of water for life?
1.) It retains heat
2.) moderates temperature
3.) its a solvent and dissolves many chemicals
4.) transports nutrients
What is climate?
the average of 30 years of weather data
True or False. Hurricanes only form in the North Atlantic
False
True or False. Hurricanes and tycoons are the same thing?
True
What are the components of Oceanography?
Collaborative – ocean policy, management, conservation
What are the sources of earth’s water?
1.) Comets
2.) Outgassing
What are comets?
primarily tiny ice comets, 30 ft in diameter, collided with earth providing water
What is outgassing?
gases released from volcanic vents, remains as water vapor to create clouds, and eventually rain. Mantle is formed 0.1-0.5 % weight of water
What is life?
1.) Capable of growing more complex
2.) Obtains and uses energy by breaking down chemical compounds
3.) Capable of self-replicating
When did ocean exploration begin?
2000 years ago
What was the first stage of ocean exploration?
Development
1.) Man saw that things floated, made boats out of vegetation or animal skins
Who was the first to chart the Mediterranean?
Ptolemy
What were the Egyptians famous for?
using sails and paddles
What was the second stage of ocean exploration?
Trade
What is the third stage of ocean exploration?
Age of Discovery
What happened when the Europeans began exploring after the Crusades?
There was a change from feudalism to mercantilism
What is the 4th stage of ocean exploration? and what were the direct and indirect objectives?
Charting the World... direct objectives- to increase domain... indirect objectives- to increase knowledge of natural history
What is the Beagle?
Charles Darwin the Theory of evolution
What is the challenger?
first devoted scientific ocean expedition
What is the 5th stage of ocean exploration and what does it pertain to?
20th century and beyond..
1.) More discovery after WWI and WWI
2.) Equipment" ecosounder, bathyscope, sonar, radar, satellites
Who invented scuba?
William James
Who developed modern scuba?
Jacques Costeau and Emile Gagnan
What is the Seasat?
First oceanic satellite, measures sea surface height, waves, currents, winds, ocean floor topography
What is the Trieste?
A study underwater vehicle known as a bathyscaphe in which the deepest ocean dive took place – Jacques Piccard (1950s)
What evidence is their of the continental split?
1.) German meteorologist proposed the idea of Continental Drift in 1912
2.) Continental Drift: large-scale movements of the continents over the globe
3.) Proposed that 200 million yrs ago a super-continent called Pangaea existed and slowly the continents split apart
What is Pangea?
1.) Super-continent that once existed
2.) Biological evidence: fossils
3.) Geological: rocks
4.) Meteorological: coal and glacial evidence in hot climates
How many plates is the Lithsophere broken up into?
& major plates and 21 minor
What is the Fire Ring?
Line of volcanoes that circle most of the Pacific Ocean and is the sight of frequent volcanic eruptions
What is the continental crust made of?
Granite
What is the oceanic crust made of?
Basalt (which is heavier than granite)
What are the components of the Earth's structure?
Crust, Mantle, and Core
What do transofrm plates do? What is an example?
They move towards each other.. San Andres Fault, CA
What is the crust?
thin layer of solid rock, broken up into plates
What is the mantle?
hot, partly molten layer made up of thick, heavy material
What is the outer core?
molten mass of iron
What is the inner core?
large, solid ball of iron and nickel
What is the shelf break?
edge of continental shelf
What is the continental slope?
1.) Transition between shallow continental shelf and deep ocean basin
2.) Steepest part
3.) Submarine Canyons: canyons that cut through the shelf and slope caused by turbidity currents
What is the continental rise?
Passive margin covering bottom edge of continental slope and edge of ocean basin
What is the ocean floor?
Variety of topographic features such as ridges, abyssal plains and hills, trenches, and island arcs
What are Turbidity currents?
undersea avalanche (Congo Canyon)
What are abyssal plains?
1.) Flat, deep sediment covering ocean floor
2.) Exist between ridges and inactive margins of continents
3.) The biggest plains on earth, unique characteristics because they have been isolated for thousands of years
What are abyssal hills?
1.) Inactive volcanoes that pop up through the abyssal plains
2.) Seamounts: emerged
3.) Guyots: eroded flat, coral reefs form atolls
Explain the formation of hydrothermal vents
1.) Cold water moves down into cracks in oceanic ridges
2.) Superheated from ridge heat source and rises back up through vents carrying dissolved minerals and gases
What are trenches?
1.) Mostly found in the Pacific Rim
2.) Geologically active, large earthquakes
3.) Coldest water temperatures
4.) Longest continues trench is the Peru–Chile Trench
5.) Deepest is Mariana Trench
What are Arc islands?
Chain of volcanic islands that are parallel to trenches (Aleutian Islands)
What is the Eustatic Sea Level?
World-wide sea level change by plate tectonics, earthquakes, ice cap melting
2) its been a common occurrence over the past one million years
3.) There has been an increase in eustatic sea level (100m) since about 18,000 BP to 3,500 BP due to the melting of glaciers from the last ice age. From about 3,500 BP to present, sea level has been relatively constant. If global warming due to industrialization is true, then we may see further increases in sea level in the not too distant future
What are characteristics of Local Sea Level?
1.) Change due to weather
2.) Uplifting or subsiding coastline
3.) Currents, seiches and storm surges
Primary coasts are modified by?
Land
Explain erosional coasts
1.) Coasts with erosional features that formed during low sea level and are now flooded
2.) Flooded coastal river valleys [ex.: Chesapeake Bay
3.) Flooded coastal glacial valleys (fjor
Explain depositional coasts
Coasts that deposit more material than is removed by marine processes
What are River Deltas?
1.) sediment deposited on the continental shelf by river
2.) they need broad continental shelf, low tidal range and mild waves and currents
What is a river-dominated delta?
form in protected marginal seas (Mississippi)
What is a tide-dominated delta?
large tidal currents
What is a wave-dominated delta?
smaller, one primary channel
What are Glacial Moraines?
sediment deposited by the terminus
What are volcanic coasts?
formed from lava flows (ex Hawaii is constantly
What are fault coasts?
1.) Vertical fault movement along a coast can cause land to uplift or subside
2.) Horizontal fault movement can cause the opening of a gulf or a linear shoreline
What are secondary coasts?
Coast dominated by marine processes, such as waves action, in conjunction with terrestrial erosion after they have become stable
What is physical erosion?
Abrasion
What is chemical weathering?
Dissolving
What is a sea cliff?
precipitous slope caused by collapse of wave cut
What is a wave-cut platform?
flat platform caused by underwater erosion
What is a sea cave>
cave cut waves at a zone of weakness in the sea
What is a headland?
protrusion in the coastline of more resistant rock
What is a sea arch?
two caves on opposite sides of a headland join
What is a sea stack?
a pillar of rock just off a headland formed by the collapse of a sea arch
What is the beach?
sediment from the erosion of the platform and cliff that is deposited between headlands
What is Shore Straightening?
1.) Refraction of waves towards headlands and away from bays eventually erodes headlands back
2.) Sediment is deposited in the relatively calm bays
What is wave refraction?
1.) Waves are angled to the shore, moving sediment up the slope of the beach at an angle
2.) If they come straight on, they form a rip current
How are long-shore currents produced?
Produced by wave refraction, carries the sediments along the shoreline
What are the only kind of coasts that have coastal cells?
Secondary coasts
What are coastal cells?
Sector of the coastline where input of sediments equals the outflow of sediments onto the continental shelf or in submarine canyons
What is a sand spit?
1.) Finger of sand that extends out into a the entrance to a bay
2.) Forms in the direction of the long-shore current and is deposited as the long-shore current losses velocity in the bay
What is a bay mouth bar?
Sand spit that fully closes off the entrance to a bay
What are inlets?
Break in the bay mouth bar caused by tidal action
What are Barrier Islands?
1.) exposed sandbars that run parallel to the coast
2.) moving islands, migrate both toward the shore and parallel to the long-shore current
What is a lagoon?
The shallow body of seawater between the barrier island and the shore
What are the differences between summer and winter profiles?
1.) Summer: gentle slope, long shore bar (sedimentation)
2.) Winter: steeper slope, no long shore bar
What are biologically modified caosts? Give examples?
1.) Shaped by living things
2.) Mangroves in tropical, Salt marsh in temperate, Coral reefs
What is wind?
the movement of air from an area of high pressure (heavy air) to an area of low pressure (lighter air)
What are the main gases of the atmosphere?
Nitrogen, oxygen, argon, carbon dioxide, water vapor
What is the global heat budget?
Distribution of energy throughout the earth, input = output, more input in the equator, output at the poles
What is the thermal equilibrium?
Averaged over time, the input of energy to the whole surface of the earth and atmosphere is equal to the output of energy to space
What are the atmospheric gases?
Water Vapor and CO2
What is the greenhouse effect?
1.) Atmospheric gases provide a natural warming of the earth that is necessary for life
2.) The energy is retained in the ozone layer which acts as a greenhouse – if we don’t have this our temp with be lower
3.) Concern of too much CO2 since the Industrial Revolution – global warming
Where are Hadley Atmospheric Cells?
equator and 30 latitude (tradewinds)
Where are Ferrel Atmospheric Cells?
form between 30 – 60 latitude (Horse latitudes)
Where are Polar Atmospheric Cells?
form between 60 latitude and the poles (easterlies)
What is the Coriolis effect?
1.) Objects moving in the Northern Hemisphere are deflected to the right (clockwise)
2.) Objects moving in the Southern Hemisphere are deflection to left (counterclockwise)
What are the primary causes of circulation?
1.) Wind
2.) Thermal expansion of equator – sea level is higher at equator than at poles pushing water away from the equator
What are the secondary causes of ocean circulation?
continents and the hill in the middle of the gyre
Clockwise in N and counterclockwise in S
Label gyres – N and S Atlantic, Indian
What are 5 geostrophic gyres?
N Atlantic, S Atlantic, N Pacific, S Pacific, Indian Ocean
What are 2 equatorial currents?
Atlantic and Pacific
What does the primordial pizza theory state?
that life originated on the surface in pools
What is the ekman spiral?
the velocity distribution with depth