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67 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
what percentage of the US population lives within easy access of the coast
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80%
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zone lying between lowest low tide and highest height of storm wave disturbance
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shore
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region extending inland from high boundary of shore to places where ocean-related features can be found
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coast
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boundary between shore and coast
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coastline
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division of shore only touched by water during storms or abnormally high water
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backshore
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division of shore in the intertidal zone
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foreshore
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edge of the water
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shoreline
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area extending from shore edge to the low tide breaker line (bottom is touched by waves)
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nearshore
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area beyond low tide breaker line
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offshore
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line where the waves just touch the bottom
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breaker line
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entire active area of sediments affected by breakers, or a deposit in the shore area
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beach
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flat, wave-eroded surface
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wave-cut bench
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raised section of gently-sloping sand leading to shoreline
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berm
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steep bank at the seaward edge of a berm
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scarp
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wet, sloping surface leading to the shoreline
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beach face
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sand bars that are parallel to the coast and cause waves to break early
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longshore bars
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depressed region separating a sand bar from the beach face
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longshore trough
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water rushing up the beach from breaking waves
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swash
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water that drains down the beach
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backwash
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does more swash soak into the beach under light or heavy wave activity
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light wave activity
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in light wave activity, are berms eroded or deposited; why
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deposited; low backwash due to soaking by sand
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in heavy wave activity, are longshore bars eroded or deposited; why
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deposited; backwash takes sand to edge of breakers
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beach with wide berm, steep beach face, no longshore bar due to light wave activity
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summertime beach
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beach with a thin berm, flattend beach face, and longshore bar due to heavy wave activity
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wintertime beach
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zigzag movement of water (swash+backwash) along the shore; max speed
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longshore current; 4 km/h
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movement of sediment parallel to the shore within the surf zone
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longshore drift (longshore transport)
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which direction do longshore currents on the US Atlantic and Pacific coasts flow
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southward
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cliffs that form after waves cut a notch under them and much of the rock collapses
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wave-cut cliff
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opening under a headland
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sea arch
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large area eroded on a headland but not broken through
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sea cave
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tall columns of rock that are the remains of an eroded headland
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sea stack
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gently sloping feature resulting from a wave-cut bench lifting upward or falling sea level
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marine terrace
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movement of water away from the beach along the bottom starting as backwash
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sheet flow
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narrow, turbulent movement of water away from shore that goes up to 8 km/h
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rip current
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linear ridge of sediment extending in direction of longshore drift starting from land
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spit
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rapid motion of water along the bottom away from shore that is a continuation of backwash
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undertow
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which way does the end of a spit curve
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into a bay due to currents
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ridge inhibiting water flow in or out of a bay (extension of a spit)
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bay barrier
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sand ridge connecting an island to the mainland or two islands to each other
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tombolo
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extremely long offshore deposits of sand parallel to the coast
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barrier islands
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water separating a barrier island from the mainland
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lagoon
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deposits of sand on land caused by winds blowing sand
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dunes
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are barrier islands moving landward or seaward due to sea level rise on the Atlantic coast
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landward
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deposit of sediments at the mouth of a river
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delta
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branching channels that deposit sediments on a delta
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distributaries
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narrowing of beach due to erosion and disruption by man-made structures
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beach starvation
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collective set including a river, beach, and submarine canyon
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beach compartment
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shoreline rising above sea level
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emergent/emerging coastline/shoreline
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shoreline dropping below sea level
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submergent/submerging coastline/shoreline
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deposits of sediment well above sea level
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stranded beach deposits
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a drowned river valley
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ria
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which US coast is submerging; why?
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Atlantic coast; crust cooling and thermal contraction
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which US coast is emerging; why?
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Pacific coast; tectonic activity
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worldwide change in sea level due to change in seawater volume or ocean capacity
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eustatic change
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is sea level higher or lower during an ice age
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lower
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span of geologic time which is the last ice age, which ended 10,000 years ago
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Pleistocene Epoch
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how much does sea level change for each 1 degree Celsius change in average ocean temperature
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2 m
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glacial deposits of sediment left behind after the glaciers melted
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moraines
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structures built to protect a coast from erosion
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hard stabilization
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barriers perpendicular to the coastline designed to trap sediment moving in longshore drift
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groin
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sturdy blocks of material commonly used in groins
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rip-rap
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hard stabilization built perpendicular to the shoreline designed to protect a harbor entrance from waves
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jetty
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barriers built parallel to the shoreline in order to decrease wave energy hitting shore
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breakwater
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hard stabilization landward of the berm and parallel to shore designed to armor coast
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seawall
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addition of sand to a beach to replace lost sediment
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beach nourishment/replenishment
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where is the tallest lighthouse in the US
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Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
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how far was the Cape Hatteras lighthouse moved
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884 m
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