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105 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
force that causes ocean waves to form
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disturbing force
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movement of water at the pynocline (between an interface of different-density waters)
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internal waves
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height of an internal wave can exceed
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100 m
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waves created by a movement of mass into the water
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splash waves
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name 2 events splash waves can be created by
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coastal landslides, calving icebergs
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waves created by large, quick disturbances
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tsunamis, or seismic sea waves
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name 3 causes of tsunamis
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earthquakes, turbidity currents, volcanic eruptions
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waves caused by gravitational forces of sun and moon
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tides
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waves behind a ship or boat
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wake
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waves that keep moving forward
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progressive waves
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3 types of progressive wave
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longitudinal, transverse, orbital
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wave type for which particles vibrate with direction of wave propagation
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longitudinal
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synonymous with longitudinal wave
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push-pull wave
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shape of a wave
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waveform
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what type of wave is sound
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longitudinal
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synonymous with transverse wave
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side-to-side wave
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wave for which particles moving perpendicular to direction of wave propagation
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transverse wave
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what type of wave can generally only move through solids but not liquids
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transverse wave
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waves that have motion mixed between longitudinal and transverse with particles moving in circles or ellipses
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orbital waves
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what type of wave is an ocean interface wave
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orbital wave
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high part of a wave or peak
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crest
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low part of a wave
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trough
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name of line halfway between crests and troughs
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still water level, zero energy level
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vertical distance from crest to trough
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wave height (H)
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distance between two successive crests or troughs
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wavelength (L)
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ratio of wave height to wavelength
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wave steepness
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formula for wave steepness
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H/L
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above what wave steepness do waves break
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1/7
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time it takes for one full wave (one wavelength) to pass a fixed position
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period (T)
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typical range of periods for ocean waves
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6 to 16 seconds
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number of waves passing a fixed location per unit of time
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frequency (f)
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formula relating frequency and period
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f = 1/T
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depth at which orbital wave motion becomes negligible
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wave base
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what is the depth of the wave base
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d = L/2
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slight movement of water forward with each wave
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wave drift (net mass transport)
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waves in water deeper than the wave base (d>L/2)
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deep-water waves
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rate at which a wave travels (2 names)
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wave speed (S), celerity (C)
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equations for any wave celerity based on f, L, and/or T
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C = L/T = Lf
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equations for deep-water wave celerity based on T or L
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C (m/s) = 1.56T = 1.2*L^0.5
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longer wavelength waves move: slower or faster?
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faster
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waves in depth less than L/20 (d<L/20)
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shallow-water waves
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type of wave that "feels bottom" or "touches bottom"
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shallow-water wave
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equation for shallow-water wave based on depth
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C (m/s) = 3.13*d^0.5
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are tides and tsunamis: transitional, deep-water, or shallow-water waves
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shallow-water waves
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waves that are at a depth of between L/2 and L/20 and intermediate between shallow-water and deep-water waves
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transitional waves
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what are most ocean waves created by
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wind
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small waves with rounded crests and V-shaped troughs
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capillary waves, ripples
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capillary waves have wavelengths under _____
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1.74 cm
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what is the primary restoring force of capillary waves
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surface tension, capillarity
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waves larger than capillary waves with rounded troughs and pointed crests
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gravity waves
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primary restoring force of waves larger than capillary waves
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gravity
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waveform of gravity waves with pointed crests and rounded troughs
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trochoidal
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area where wind-generated waves are created
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sea, sea area
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3 factors correlated with wave energy
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fetch, duration, wind speed
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the distance over which the wind blows in one direction
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fetch
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what wave property is directly proportional to wave energy
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wave height
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open ocean breakers
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whitecaps
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scale measuring wind speeds based on the appearance of the sea surface
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Beaufort Wind Scale
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what is the range of categories in the Beaufort Scale
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0 to 12
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area where waves have reached their maximum size for current conditions by equilibrium
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fully developed sea
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uniform, symmetrical waves moving faster than the wind that have moved out of the area of their creation
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swells
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do swells usually have low or high wave steepness
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low wave steepness
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group of waves sorted by wavelength and speed
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wave train
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process of sorting waves by wavelength and speed, which forms wave trains
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wave dispersion
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the distance over which waves move from a choppy sea to low-wind (where they become swells)
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decay distance
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an individual wave in a wave train moves by a factor of what compared to the speed of the wave train
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2
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mixing of waves together to form different patterns
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interference
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interference occurring when wave trains mix in phase and the crests and troughs line up
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constructive interference
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interference occurring when wave trains mix out of phase and the crests and troughs cancel
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destructive interference
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varied sequence of high and low waves
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surf beat
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interference mixed between being constructive and destructive
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mixed interference
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area near shore where waves break
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surf zone
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the pattern resulting from interference of multiple waves
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superposition
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shallowing of water
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shoaling
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what changes happen to a wave as it reaches shallow water: speed, wavelength, height, steepness, eccentricity?
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decrease, decrease, increase, increase, increase
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for which source of waves will the surf be more rough, choppy, and irregular: swell from distant storm or local winds?
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local winds
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equation relating breaker height to depth
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d = 1.33*(height of breaker)
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how does a wave break
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water on top moves faster than water on bottom of wave
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breakers for which water slowly topples down front of wave
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spilling breaker
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breaker that has a curling crest
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plunging breaker
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breaker that quickly breaks near the shore
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surging breaker
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name the breakers that occur at the following shore slopes: shallow, moderate, steep
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spilling, plunging, surging
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bending of waves as the approach shore and "touch bottom"
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refraction
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at about what angle are most waves' orthogonal lines compared to a gentle, regular shore
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90 degrees, perpendicular
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lines pointing in the direction of wave propagation and perpendicular to wave fronts
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orthogonal lines, wave rays
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where is wave energy concentrated most: headland or bay?
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headland
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process by which a rigid barrier returns incoming waves back to their source direction
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reflection
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area where reflection occurs off of a jetty at Newport Harbor, California and creates constructive interference
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"The Wedge"
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waves that are the sum of two waves moving in opposite directions
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standing waves
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lines along which there is no vertical movement among standing waves
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nodal lines, nodes
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lines along which there is maximum vertical movement among standing waves
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antinodal lines, antinodes
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japanese translation for tsunami
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harbor wave
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wavelength of a tsunami typically exceeds _________
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200 km
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typical speed of a tsunami in the open ocean
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700 km/h
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what happens when a tsunami reaches shore
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rapid decrease then rise in sea level
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massive, solitary wave that is unusually large (especially compared to surrounding waves) due to constructive interference
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rogue wave
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number of large ships that go missing each year without a trace
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10
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how does a current result in a rogue wave
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current pushes against wave and makes it steeper
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where are rogue waves common; why here
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"Wild Coast," southeast coast of Africa; Agulhas current meats Antarctic storm waves
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origin of large volcanic tsunami in 1883 with the highest-energy natural explosion ever recorded
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Krakatau, Indonesia
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place where the largest wave (splash wave) ever recorded occurred due to an enormous rockslide in 1958
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Lituya Bay, Alaska
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how tall was the Lituya Bay wave
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530 m
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PTWC
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Pacific Tsunami Warning Center
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world's first wave power plant that began operating in 2000
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LIMPET 500
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standing wave in an enclosed or partially enclosed basin
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seiche wave
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